When we arrive at Tintswalo Atlantic, the Cape of Storms is more than living up to its moniker. We parked our car just off Chapman's Peak Drive in a swirl of mist and rain. The wind buffets the shuttle taking us down towards the sea along a winding road cut into the fynbos-covered slope. Umbrellas are whipped out for our short dash into the lounge. As the sun breaks through cloud, sparkling on the angry sea, we settle by a roaring fire to complete check-in procedures. We take our welcome glasses of rosé with us to Java — one of 10 clapboard Island Suites perched along this stretch of coast. Each has been decorated differently, inspired by the isle that gave it its name. Ours is easygoing but elegant, dominated by tropical blues. A fire is lit, and soon the room is toasty. I open the sliding doors and the rumbling and roaring of the waves floods in, the scent of wood smoke and salt-spray mingling together. The water churns and tumbles hypnotically a few metres away from the balcony —...

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