Visiting Athens, where the ancient world is on display at every turn, gives a perspective on history and the transience of life. The Parthenon, perched majestically atop the Acropolis hill, provides a link to the past and an orientating landmark. Over the millennia, its ancient stones have witnessed cycle upon cycle of destruction and regeneration of the city below. The Acropolis has been the site of building and ruin since it became the seat of the Mycenaean ruler in the 16th century BC. Invasions, earthquakes, explosion, pillaging, pollution and tourism have taken a toll. Despite the Parthenon now being partly covered with scaffolding and its interior occupied by huge cranes and building blocks — part of a long-term restoration process — it is impossible not to feel humbled standing beneath the pillars of an icon of western civilisation. On the southern slope of the Acropolis we felt the transmission of culture down through the ages as we sat on the stone steps of the Theatre of D...

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