The job has become a lot more difficult for London’s top concierges. A few years ago, the city wasn’t a dining destination. There were a few decent restaurants, and the safest bet was to eat at posh hotels serving expensive French cuisine. Few people understand the extent of the dining revolution better than the concierges at hotels, who are now required to build relationships with restaurants across London — a city where novelty has come to trump tradition. "To be a concierge in a London hotel 20 years ago you probably needed to know 10 maitre d’s," says the Savoy’s head concierge, Toru Machida. "But now it’s not 10, it’s 100." While restaurants are opening at a furious pace, some former favourites are disappearing. These include Vineet Bhatia, a Chelsea stalwart for 13 years, which closed in October. Others, such as Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair start out hugely in demand before tables became a little easier as tastes changed and new kids arrived on the block. Don’t get your hopes up ...

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