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Take 12 steps from its entrance and you’re on the beach, while the vibrant centre of the village — with its market, bars and restaurants — is a handy five-minute amble away, distant enough, however, for the only soundtrack at night-time to be the crash and roar of the waves. I stayed in Baia’s newest bungalow, one of four sea-facing ones. It also has two garden rooms. The white-walled room with its touches of dark wood combines European minimalist chic with beachy Mozambican warmth, though it wouldn’t be out of place in Ibiza or Capri either. Floor-to-ceiling sliding doors frame gobsmacking beach views, opening out on to a private deck and splash pool. There’s no Wi-Fi in the room (only up at the communal lounge), no silly mod-cons and no air-con either – who needs it when you’ve got sea breezes and three fans to cool you down? Wooden shutters open up to your bathroom; the basins and loo are under cover, while the shower area is open to the elements. The water sluices down a curved ...

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