Getting bogged down, stuck in the mud, beavering away and being sure-footed may all be shoptalk clichés, but they are very real adjectives for trekking in the southernmost city on the globe, Argentina’s Ushuaia. The Tierra del Fuego archipelago that incorporates Cape Horn, the most southerly land mass before reaching the Antarctic, is perhaps most famous for the kidnapped Fuegians who were paraded in front of Queen Victoria as a curiosity after being "civilised" by the British. When they were returned to the islands, they were dispatched with a missionary. Charles Darwin was on board The Beagle, the ship that carried the Fuegians home, and observing what transpired helped to galvanise his theories published in On the Origin of Species. To think Tierra del Fuego is to think wildest man. Ushuaia, once just a navy outpost and penal colony, tends to be the point from which naturalists and adventurers explore the Tierra del Fuego national park. Travelling in South America comes with chal...

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