JM Coetzee, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2003, once said: "I do believe that people can only be in love with one landscape during their lifetime. One can appreciate and enjoy many but there is only one that one feels in one’s bones." For Coetzee that landscape was the Karoo. Some years ago my son asked his future wife to marry him at The Karoo Pandok in Bethulie and he suggested that I stay there on my way to Bedford recently, in the Farmer’s Cottage which is remote and peaceful. The cottage has a large verandah and a tin roof. The one concession to modernity is an air-conditioner, but the springbok skin on the floor and a cream enamel jug and bowl are more in keeping with its character — as is the Lifebuoy soap. I wondered whether the local "algemene handelaar" only stocked one soap and pictured a small stack of Lifebuoy next to the Vaseline and Grand-Pa headache powder stored on a shelf behind the counter.

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