On most tropical islands, the day’s activities are pleasingly predictable: snorkelling, diving, swimming and drinking cocktails served in coconut shells. If that’s all you require, the nonstop action at Club Med Kani in the Maldives can feel rather disconcerting. I was doubting the enforced jollity of zumba classes, aqua aerobics, sunset yoga, cookery lessons, a stage show every evening and a disco until the tiny hours. But on the second day I found myself checking the noticeboard to see what was on the agenda – and not just so I could avoid it. Club Med used to run notorious party resorts for the young and wild, but the company has spent the past decade preening its image to move upmarket. Its once free and single customers now have kids in tow, so the focus has switched to affluent families and active couples. The Kani resort in Malé Atoll has relaunched after a revamp and the addition of a children’s activity centre. Yet even as a solo, kid-free older client who’s cynical about r...

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