You have to love Jamie Oliver. He is a special guy. Remember when he realised that children in British schools were being fed junk? He did not just try to fix his kids’ school menu. He tried to change the entire country’s school diet. And he succeeded, somewhat — British schools have introduced new items on their menus to try to avoid junk food.I was invited to a dinner where the hostess cooked salmon wrapped in prosciutto, served on a bed of lentils. It was so delicious I can still taste it as I write — the lemon drizzle, the contradictory ham and fish, all those clashes and complements. Divine. "How did you do that?" I asked my hostess. She laughed dismissively. "That was easy! It was Jamie!" I bought The Naked Chef and it was a revelation. "Grab a handful of mint," he would say. "Add a smidgen of pepper." No complications, no minute measurements as though you are in your third-year chemistry class. So when I heard he was opening his Jamie’s Italian restaurant in Melrose Arch (the...

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