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MICHAEL FRIDJHON: When image is a burden some are happy to do without
Part of what constitutes brand value in the world of wine is the expectation raised in a reasonably well-informed drinker by the mere mention of the wine’s name. Tassenberg, for example, conjures up the idea of a good-value drinking red — perhaps associated with a misspent youth or wild times on campus. The same is equally true of appellation. If someone says Elim, you are supposed to think of cool-climate sauvignon blanc, whereas Swartland evokes the idea of interesting, hand-crafted reds. Connotation to a brand changes slowly, which serves to protect underperforming producers, giving them time to make good before the market punishes them. Unfortunately, this time lag also makes it difficult for producers to obtain recognition for improvements. A cellar known to be a source of good-value white wines will need many years of winning awards for deluxe reds before punters alter their perception.Take Bellingham for example. In the 1970s it was a premium-priced innovative brand, selling ...
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