Given David Higgs’s pedigree as chef of the year, it did not seem wrong to ask if his new spot, Marble in Rosebank Johannesburg’s Art Mile, is a fine-dining establishment. "No chance — it’s not f***ing fine dining by any stretch of the imagination. It is food everyone can recognise. Hearty portions," he says. "When you order a dish with us it comes with everything. The dish has been thought out. It’s a restaurant that celebrates that." Higgs is also asked frequently what defines authentic South African cuisine and has a ready answer. "Whatever the culture, we all — black, coloured, Indian, whatever — we all love cooking on the fire and we all love meat," he says. While there are interesting vegetarian options on the menu, Marble is about meat and fire. "The name is a play on the marbling of the meat [the deep-vein fat that adds so much flavour] and the marble counter tops and big marble wall so it’s about us as meat enthusiasts," says Higgs. "Sometimes, when you walk into a restaura...

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