Surrounded by tall trees with leaves rustling a soothing welcome, the Johannesburg spa seems the perfect place to relax and unwind — and the train whizzing past metres from the window does not detract from the experience, especially if you have not watched trains for years. Molobane Estate Lodge and Spa, in Zuurbekom on the West Rand — about 35 minutes’ drive from Johannesburg, and less than 15 minutes from Soweto — is one of the best-kept secrets among those in the competitive business world who retreat there to recover. The owner, Melita Molobane Mohlala, has had a life as interesting and diverse as the retreat she developed on a small stretch of bushveld. She is a former teacher, a musician who performs for the love of music and a construction mogul. The greater Westonaria District Municipality is dotted with smallholdings that used to be larger farms, many of them now owned by the rich and powerful in the black elite, who snatched them up when the previous owners sold and fled i...

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